Extracted from my book Drinking Dom Pérignon 1921 to 2013.
Mature Bottle Condition Grades
The scale I have used for evaluating the condition of the bottle in which a mature Champagne resides (bottle condition) is based on a very pragmatic approach; that of having drunk thousands of mature Champagnes since 2008.
5 = Perfect bottle
Upon opening, the cork resists strongly, giving a sound, a little pop according to its age. When pouring into a glass, there ought to be clear visible bubbles. The colour of the wine is clear. The nose is clean, you can experience the wonderful scent of the wine. There are no disturbing aromas. You will be able to taste everything, the wine, the vintage, the age. Before opening, when holding the bottle against natural light, the colour is clear, with no leaks. No large amounts of sediment, although the sediment is not a fault in itself.
4 = Excellent
Grade four does not differentiate by outer beauty from the 5 condition bottle. Only upon opening can you find just small hints of earthy aromas, nuts and raisins on the scent. They will fade somewhat with some time. The colour is not completely clear. The cork gives only little resistance when opening. There are some bubbles visible when pouring. Upon tasting, you can feel the acidity is just a bit down from what is perfect. You’re still able to taste the soul of the wine, the vintage. When there is the promise of near perfection, an above 98p experience a condition grade 4 can deduct one or two points from the ratings compared to a condition 5 bottle. With a potentially 94p - 95p wine the difference between is minimal, half a point or a point.
3 = Good
Upon opening, the cork offers almost no resistance. When pouring into the glass there is no visible fizz but when tasting, you can feel that there is some life left in the wine. The taste is dominated by the earthy aromas of nuts and raisins that should not be a part of the wine. An overripe apple is often a part of the palette too. You can still drink if you like the taste. Bottle condition 3 can take down the points of a wine by 2-8 points depending on the potential best points expected. This is the reality for most people drinking mature Champagnes. A bottle condition three should have some bubbles. The colour of the content within the bottle is somewhat unclear. The cork might have an earthy nutty smell. You can’t expect anything near perfection.
2 = Sadness in a bottle
The colour is foggy and much darker than it should be, more on the brown side. The cork usually just lifts out without any resistance. The smell is unpleasant, very strong and off-putting. Burnt rubber and the aroma of medicine.. There are absolutely no bubbles, they all left years ago. If a bottle looks like a bottle condition 2, it usually has the content of a bottle condition 2 too.
1 = Faulty
Same as before but just worse. Much worse. Do not drink it.
You can quote me on the bottle condition if you mention the source and link to my website. If you share on socials, please tag me. In print please mention source as: Drinking Dom Pérignon 1921 to 2013 by Edward Kaukoranta.
Rating points
Rating points. There are several ways of rating wine, from 1 to 5 stars, the 20-point scale and the 100-point scale. I use the 100-point scale. The brutal truth: there are just a handful of Champagne houses that can create a 100p - 99p wine with a few more who are able to manufacture a 97p to 98p cuvée. When considering the skill, the expertise required to be able to do it on a consistent basis, vintage after vintage, the list gets even shorter.
99p - 100p
Incredible, an enchanting joy of a scent. Drinking the wine, at over an hour it remains solid. Giving pleasure to the senses by every parameter of wine quality; complexity, balance, personality, intensity, purity and an everlasting endless aftertaste. In the last 20 years of drinking, less than 20 wines have gotten 99p or 100p from me. To reach these points of perfection, everything must be in place. The vintage must be absolutely perfect, the ageing flawless and the timing impeccable. Some examples of my 99p: Krug Clos du Mesnil 1981, Dom Pérignon 1982 Rosé, Cristal 1979, Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 1973, Dom Pérignon 1969, Cristal 1955, Dom Pérignon 1955, Dom Pérignon 1949, Shipwrecked Heidsieck & Co 1907 and 100p: Dom Pérignon 1929.
95p - 98p
A beautiful, charming scent. Outstanding balance. Flawless structure, a wine with complexity and layered dimensions of personality. An endless, lingering harmonious aftertaste that gives you a cringe smile. An unforgettable experience of a wine. A fresh classic vintage of Taittinger Comtes de Champagne is 95p for me. The first taste of a new vintage of Rosé Dom Pérignon can be 95p - 97p and the same with the new releases of P2 of Dom Pérignon. Most mature Dom Pérignons hang around these points depending on the vintage and bottle condition, for example, Dom Pérignon 1998, 1988, 1982, 1976 and 1964. Some great artisan Champagnes with some age can reach this level.
90p - 94p
An inviting scent. A wine with character. It enchants you with its impeccable balance, intensity and complexity. This category accounts for the majority of the wines I drink. For me, 90p is an indicator that I would like to have a second glass. Pol Roger Brut Reserve is 90p. Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve is 93p, The Louis Roederer Collection is 92p - 94p. The first sip of a classic new vintage of Dom Pérignon is usually 93p - 94p, upon which it rises a point or two within a year or two. The best of the Artisan Champagnes also start from here. Most of the mature Champagne experiences you will ever taste are going to be here since the bottle condition is a key factor.
86p - 89p
A pleasant scent. A good wine with balance, some complexity and character. Worth drinking, consistent but nothing enchanting. Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial is the benchmark of Champagne for me, 87p. It is where it all starts. Even more important is the price-to-quality ratio. Here, the wines need to be priced accordingly. The lesser-known brands of Champagne produce really nice price-quality Champagnes that are between 86p and 89p.
80p - 85p
It has a scent. An average, though well-made wine. The nose and palate are somewhat one-dimensional and impersonal. It may come as a surprise, but by numbers, the majority of Champagne producers are here. The ones you can drive to by car and pick up by the case.
75p - 79p
Uninviting scent. A modest and straightforward wine lacking life and harmony.
Below 75p
Bad nose. No structure, out of balance. Highlighted alcohol, over or under acidic. Please, drink the wine alone. It is impolite to share this type of wine with anyone.
You can quote me on the bottle condition if you mention the source and link to my website. If you share on socials, please tag me. In print please mention source as: Drinking Dom Pérignon 1921 to 2013 by Edward Kaukoranta.